APPLYING MAKEUP

How is the lighting where you apply your makeup?  Are you applying your makeup in a bathroom or bedroom with one bright light above your head?  Is that one overhead light casting some pretty bad shadows on your facial features, making it difficult for you to judge how much color to apply to your eyes, lips and cheeks?

Understanding proper lighting and using that lighting while applying your makeup makes a big difference in how your makeup looks.  The better your face is lit, the more even your makeup application will be, helping you to achieve a pretty and natural finish.  Beware if you are applying your makeup in a dimly-lit room - it is easy to overdo your application.

So when possible try to apply your makeup in a well-lit area.  It is very helpful to be by a window for natural light.   Natural daylight is the very best light for checking your makeup blending skills and intensity of the colors you've applied. In natural daylight, it is easy to see if you need to add color in some areas or tone down the amount of color in other areas.  You can check your makeup application by looking in a mirror either next to a window or by going outside.  "I have had to prepare many poorly-lit areas for makeup application in my 18+ years as a makeup artist, even removing lamp shades to get better lighting on the face of my subject!  And no matter what the lighting was on-set, when possible I almost always took my subject outside to check his or his makeup in natural daylight," says Jennifer Kalman, Commercial Makeup Artist and Founder of www.QDazzleProm.com.  If your makeup application looks great in natural daylight, it will look great in most other settings, even in fluorescent office lights or soft evening lights.

Once you've settled yourself near a good light for applying your makeup, here's another helpful tip.  For best results during your makeup application, while holding your mirror to apply your makeup be sure to turn your face (and mirror) up toward the light source, whether your light source is a lightbulb or the the natural daylight outside a window.  By doing this, you can achieve an even coverage of light on your face while you apply your makeup so that no shadows will distort the amount of color you apply.  For example when applying blusher, if one side of your face is in a shadow and one side of your face is in the light, you might be tempted to apply more blush on the side in the shadow because there is little light on that side of your face and you're unable to clearly see the amount of color you have already applied.

Of course, sometimes it is not possible to apply or at least check your makeup in natural daylight.  In these cases, try to find the brightest indoor lighting possible.  Then use the above tip of turning your face and mirror toward the light source so that there are no shadows on your face while you apply your makeup.

When you're aware of the lighting around you before applying your makeup, you will have the best results with your makeup application.

Applying Makeup is a post from: Fytuba Makeup

Though Dawna is saying goodbye to California, she's not giving up her crime-fighting ways: "Some people like riding bikes or surfing. I like hiding in bushes and catching criminals," said the hairdresser whose business card says she "Cuts hair by day and crime by night."

Words to live by. Good luck, Dawna!

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Step 1: Cleanse

To start, pick a quality cleanser that will gently exfoliate the skin, this helps clean deep in your pores and remove dead skin cells from the surface.  This also allows for all other products to go on smoothly and evenly, preventing blotching or clumping of in any particular areas of your face when it is time for makeup application.  A great exfoliating cleanser, for all skin types, is Peter Thomas Roth’s Botanical Buffing Beads.  This product is gentle enough for use twice a day without stripping your face of its natural oils. 

Step 2: Moisturize

Next, you need to apply a great moisturizer that is well-suited for your skin type.  If you have dry skin, look for a product that has a time-release component  and will keep renewing itself throughout the day.  If you have oily skin, look for an oil-free moisturizer that will not make your skin too oily.  If you have combination skin, look for an oil-free moisturizer and a moisture booster to use on the drier areas of your face.  This will help each area of your face stay hydrated at the correct levels all day long.  A great moisturizer for dry skin is, Philosophy’s Hope In A Jar for dry, sensitive skin.  I recommend Kinerase Clear Skin Moisture Light, for oily skin, it leaves a nice dewy finish on the face.  Finally, for combination skin, Oasis Face Hydrating Treatment and Oasis 24 Hydrating Booster by H20+ are my picks for an effective moisturizer and hydrator. 

*Tip: The best time to apply your moisturizer is immediately after you have washed your face and patted it dry slightly.  Your face should still be damp when you apply the moisturizer; this is when it is absorbed best. 

Step 3: Prime or Mattify

After you let the appropriate moisturizer soak into your pores for a few minutes (at least 3 minutes) then it is time to put on your primer.  A primer helps with preparing your skin for makeup application by making your face smooth and even as a painting canvas, in terms of texture.  This is a great choice for someone with dry skin, because it is water-based and also hydrating to the skin, which will prevent your makeup for looking ashy.  However, if you have combination or oily skin, a mattifyer would be a better choice for you at this step.  A mattifyer is a product that also evens out the texture of your skin for makeup application, but has the added benefit of absorbing excess oil.  This is important so your makeup will never look oily and greasy.  A primer I like is Vincent Longo’s Water Canvas Base Primer, it keeps your makeup from feathering or creasing because of its water-gel base.  For a mattifyer, Peter Thomas Roth’s Anti-Mattifying Gel provides great results and helps makeup wear smoothly for hours.

Step 4: Camouflage

This step is optional because it is only for those of you who have severe hyperpigmentation of the face, severe acne scarring, or extreme bags under one’s eyes.  Camouflage is just that, it is a camouflage that is more serious than a concealer and is used to completely hide an issue on someone’s face.  If you need to use this product, just dab a bit, with a makeup wedge, on to the exact spots you need it.  With the makeup wedge, gently blend the camouflage in, feathering it toward the edges of your face.  Since this is a heavier product, you do not want to use a lot.  A camouflage that has received rave reviews is Benefit Cosmetics’ Erase Paste.  It is great, because not only does it hide; it also brightens by reflecting light off of that area of the face.  

Step 5: Conceal

A concealer is also an optional step, but one that more of you are likely to use.  Concealers work well for hiding minor facial issues, such as age spots, slight hyperpigmentation, acne scars, etc.  As with the camouflage, you only want to use a small amount.  I recommend using a concealer brush for this step, as the small brush is very precise and you will be able to put it exactly where you want it.  Just dab a little in the areas that you need it and then blend it into your skin with a makeup wedge.  If you used a camouflage first, then gently go back over those areas and blend again.  You do not want your makeup to look as if it is standing up off of your face.  A concealer that I use faithfully is LORAC’s Coverup, they have shades for a wide variety of complexions. 

Step 6: Foundation

Next is the foundation, this is the product where many get confused, since there are so many different types.  For dry skin, a liquid foundation or crème foundation will work best.  To apply, get a clean makeup wedge and dab a generous amount (but not too much!) on your forehead, the bridge of your nose, chin and cheeks.  Next, start to blend the foundation, in a small dabbing motion, into your concealer and into the rest of your face.  You should constantly be working in the direction that is toward the outer edges of your face. NARS Liquid Balanced Foundation or Laura Mercier’s Silk Crème Foundation are sure bets.

 For combination or oily skin, an oil-free pressed powder would be best.  Repeat the same steps as above, except use a foundation brush instead and go in a swirling motion toward the edges of your face.  In either case, when finished applying the foundation, lightly dab excess off of your face using a makeup puff or cotton balls.  This will give you a more natural look.  LORAC’S Oil-Free Wet/Dry Powder Makeup is a great choice.

Step 7: Highlights

“Highlights” is what I consider to be the remaining parts of makeup application.  This includes eyeshadow, mascara, blush, lip gloss, and/or lipstick.  These items can be put on in moderation or not at all, as they are only the icing on the cake.  

For eyeshadow, less is always more, especially if you are new to makeup.  Using a soft eyeshadow brush, gently sweep your eyelids with a color you have chosen.  Once you have dipped the brush into the eyeshadow, gently tap the excess off before applying to your face.  COLORON Professional offers eyeshadow sets in various color palates, which is very useful when you want to find a shade that is just right for you.

For mascara, choose one that matches the color of your hair for the most natural results.  Dior DiorShow Mascara is a celebrity favorite because it volumizes, lengthens, and curls lashes all at the same time!

For blush, just a hint should be added to the apple of your cheeks.  This is the part of your cheek that sticks out when you smile.  Using a blush brush, lightly sweep your brush through the blush, tap off excess, and then gently glide across the apple of your cheek.  LANCOME BLUSH SUBTIL-Delicate Oil-Free Powder Blush is a red-carpet staple, because it is nearly impossible to put on too much blush with this product. 

For lips, lip gloss is best, it provides a softer finish and longer wear.  I do not recommend lip liner, even if you have thin lips, because it can run and make you have an off-center lip line.  My pick for lip gloss is CARGO’s XXX Shine Lip Gloss, it adds just enough color and stays in place for hours.

From cleansing to highlights, I know you are well on your way to applying makeup like a pro.  As with anything else, makeup application takes practice and with time you will get better and more efficient.  Don’t give up if you don’t get it the first time because soon you will have the flawless complexion of your dreams.  

Makeup Application: 7 Steps to a Flawless Complexion With Makeup is a post from: Fytuba Makeup

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Through Thick and Thin
“If you have a tiny face with delicate features, thick brows can be overwhelming,” says Soare, adding that those with a low brow bone should also avoid going too full. “You want to open your eyes—if the space between the brows and the upper lashes is small, make the eyebrow thinner and more arched.”

On the other hand, if you have a higher-set brow bone, thick brows are the more flattering option (otherwise, says Soare, your visage might look disproportionate). If you divide the face into thirds, “the spaces between the hairline and the brows, brows and nose base, and nose base to the chin should be equal in length,” says Soare. Wider arches are also best for fuller faces, whose expansiveness can be magnified by thin brows.

If your face shape requires thicker brows yet over-tweezing has left your upper lids nearly barren, encourage hair growth with an over-the-counter conditioner like Soare’s Brow Enhancing Serum or RevitaBrow (prescription lash-amplifier Latisse is not yet FDA-approved for eyebrow use).

For brow-shaping tips, click here.

Filling in the Blanks
“With the help of a pencil and/or powder, you can fill in spaces and create the appearance of lusher brows,” says Soare. When grooming Penélope Cruz’s brows for the Oscars earlier this year, Soare used Brow Wiz in medium ash and accentuated the arch by dusting highlighter underneath. To finish, Soare brushed on clear brow gel to keep hairs and pencil color in place. She calls brow gel a “hairspray for eyebrows” and says that if you don't have any handy, actual hairspray will do (mist on a fine-bristled toothbrush and comb through brows).

Color Theory
Though Madonna’s dark-brows-with-blond-hair combo was chic in the 1980s, Soare says arches look best when they're within one to two shades of your hair color: “If you’re brunette, they should be one shade lighter; if you’re blond, they should be one shade darker.” Rather than permanently dye the brows of her celebrity clients—whose hair colors change as often as their film and TV roles—Soare uses tinted brow gel to lighten and darken accordingly.

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Teased hair. There's something so sexy about a softly teased crown. We love it paired with tousled waves, à la Brigitte Bardot. To copy her style, add a dollop of mousse to damp hair. If you have time, let your hair air dry to encourage a natural wave (if your hair is straight, try drying it in a bun). After your hair is dry, tease the crown ever so slightly and use a large-barrel curling iron to create soft waves. Shake them out with your fingers to give them a sexy, imperfect effect.

Winged eyeliner. This retro style (like in the Cavalli fall show, above) has a racy appeal that we love. Hold your lid taut, and draw a thin line of black or brown liquid liner from the outer corner of the eye in. Then paint a small check mark from the outer corner up toward the temple.

Doe eyes with pale lips. This one is so simple but so sultry. Smudge a black eyeliner along the upper and lower lash line, and choose a beige or baby pink lipstick. To keep the look from seeming severe or dated, choose a lipstick with a touch of shimmer.

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First of all - what is mineral makeup? Mineral makeup is made from naturally-occuring crushed minerals, usually zinc oxide, titanium dioxide, iron oxides and mica. These loose minerals are combined together in different quantities to make a variety of mineral makeup powder formulations such as foundations, finishing powders, concealers, blushers, bronzers and eye shadows. The minerals titanium dioxide and zinc oxide in particular, act as a natural sunblock, effectively filtering UVA and UVB rays to deliver sun protection of up to SPF 20.

Mineral makeup is free of irritants like perfumes, preservatives (such as parabens), alcohols and dyes. Many traditional makeup brands use synthetic FD&C dyes in their products - however, these dyes have been identified as the one of the leading causes of allergic reactions in makeup. Most mineral makeup lines do not use synthetic dyes, instead, the colors are derived from naturally-occuring iron oxide pigments. All this makes mineral makeup very suitable for people with sensitive skin. In fact, mineral makeup has even been used after surgical procedures like laser peels, when skin is at its most sensitive.

However, not all mineral makeup lines are completely free of chemical irritants. Some brands use the bismuth oxychloride, which can be very irritating on the skin. Bismuth oxychloride is a mineral that is used in some major mineral makeup lines because it imparts a shimmery look to their makeup, and is a cheap filler. Bismuth oxychloride is also heavy, hence the need to 'buff' or force it into your skin. Mineral makeup lines that do not use bismuth oxychloride tend to be lighter in texture and easier to apply.

Mineral makeup can also be good for acne sufferers. By its very nature, mineral cosmetics are non-comedogenic, oil-free, anti-inflammatory and cannot harbor bacteria, which means that acne blemishes can be covered or concealed without further aggravating them. Mineral makeup will not necessarily cure acne, but skin has a much better chance of healing while wearing it, compared to traditional makeup. Many have also reported that they have fallen asleep wearing their mineral makeup without suffering any breakouts the following day. In fact, some mineral makeup lines even have mineral night-time treatments, which are specially-formulated mineral powders that you can wear every night to improve your skin. A good excuse to wear makeup to bed?

Crucially, mineral makeup avoids the use of talc, a known carcinogen found in a lot of traditional makeup. There are also no petrochemicals or coal-derived ingredients, common in a lot of traditional makeup. As you can see, the ingredient listing in say, a mineral foundation is much shorter compared to a traditional liquid foundation.

The positive claims of mineral makeup cannot be applied to all mineral makeup brands or all people. Some will have different reactions compared to others. It is always good to research first before you buy.

Is Mineral Makeup Really Good for your Skin? is a post from: Fytuba Makeup

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GENEVA - The U.S. Air Force took charge Wednesday of a $2 billion antimatter detector destined to catch the last scheduled space shuttle flight in February 2011.

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Photo: Left: Imaxtree; right: Getty Images

RED EYELINER
Red and green are opposite each other on the color wheel, making them complementary colors. So if you want to accentuate greenish-blue, green, or hazel eyes, technically red eyeliner or shadow is your best bet. While in real-life, most would substitute a subtler pink for red, this wasn’t the case on the runway at Altuzarra—where models’ lower lash lines were boldly smudged with scarlet liner. To adapt this trend for everyday, do as Rihanna did, and opt for a cleaner, slightly more fuchsia line.

Photo: Left: Imaxtree; right: Retna

BLACK HEADBAND UPDO
Karl Lagerfeld went for black latex bandeau headbands on his fall 2010 runway. To tone down this dominatrix-esque bad-girl updo, minimize the pouf and wrap a shiny black ribbon around your head instead. See January Jones’ sophisticated red-carpet hairdo for pointers.

Photo: Left: Imaxtree; right: Getty Images

BOLD EYES AND LIPS
Leave it to the fearless Dean and Dan Caten of DSquared2 to choose dramatic swept-out eyes and look-at-me lips for their fall 2010 show. If pairing seriously rimmed charcoal eyes with a florescent-cherry pucker isn’t your style, however, you can achieve a similar effect by following in Jessica Alba’s footsteps. For her look, sweep a soft taupe-gray shadow across the upper eyelids; finish with black liner close to the lash line and volumizing black mascara. Sweep an earthy, deep berry color across lips and dab a bit of gloss over the top. Add light creamy blush to the cheeks for dimension.

Photo: Left: Imaxtree; right: Getty Images

FISHTAIL BRAID
Think the braid has been played out? Think again. At the Christian Dior fall 2010 show, hair was twisted down the back of the head and swept across the side in the form of a fishtail plait. For added oomf, strands were parted into two voluminous masses of curls. When crafting the fishtail in real-life, you can go for a sleeker texture on top, as Leona Lewis did.

Photo: Left: Imaxtree; right: Getty Images

FAUX-HAWK HAIRSTYLE
It was a House Party on the Naeem Kahn fall 2010 runway, where the flat-top hairstyle got a feminine makeover: Superslick on the sides and pinned in the back, hair was teased to skyscraping heights on top. To translate this head-turning updo into a date-worthy ‘do go for a softer half-updo version like Marion Cotillard’s.

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